WARNING TO DOG WALKERS IN OUTWOOD, SURREY

 

 

Very sad news and a warning to dog walkers in Outwood. I heard  today (5 May 2017) that a young labrador was being walked near the stream in Outwood woods (about quarter/half mile from cricket ground) when his owner heard the dog yelp and when she called the dog back he collapsed and was frothing at the mouth.

Very sadly, he died on the way to the vets and some form of poisoning is suspected but as no autopsy was carried out we do not know the exact cause.

Please remember to always carry your mobile and to have your vet’s telephone number (and emergency number if different) with you.

Sorry to have to publish such sad news but I wanted other dog owners to be aware of this.

DOG TRAINING REWARDS

 

 

Donning a wetsuit and doing what your dog loves best is a very smart way to reward and bond with your dog…

What are dog training rewards…?

It may sound obvious but a reward is something your dog values (and they don’t care how much it cost!).  This means they might prefer the centre of your kitchen roll holder or a cardboard box to the expensive toy you have recently bought, or, as above, a swim in their local rock pool with dad.

The reward will also have to be valuable enough to ensure your dog is focused on you, regardless of what other distractions are present and so you will need to think about the level of reward to use and in what sort of environment.  For example, when training indoors you will usually need lower level rewards than when training in a busy outdoor environment.

Types of reward …

You!
This is the most important reward which you should wish your dog to value and the good news is that it’s free…

Verbal praise
Again, this falls under the ‘you’ reward category and if your dog values your praise then this can be used to a great advantage to both tell your dog how well he or she is doing and also to keep their attention.

Physical praise
Again, this is a ‘you’ reward so it’s worth figuring out what your dog likes.  If he or she  avoids your hands on any of his body he/she is not enjoying it so please stop…and find his favourite spots for your caresses, it might be a tickle or scratch on the rump or under his tummy or gentle ear rubbing, etc.

Food
Always use the lowest value rewards that your dog is willing to work for –  I know it sounds stingy but, as above, you need to save the best for really challenging situations and then you can be very generous when your dog does as asked.

Use a really good variety of food treats to keep your dog guessing as to what he or she might receive next.  Variety and keeping your canine friend guessing and excited about what’s coming next is a key point to keeping your dog keen to be with you when you’re using food as a reward.

A word of warning

Please note that if you are using human food please ensure you are aware of which foods are poisonous to dogs.  One of the items many people may not be aware of is that in reduced sugar products xylitol is used and that is very poisonous to dogs – please see previous article.

How to use the food …

Present the food in different ways.  As above, you need to be more exciting to the dog and the more inventive you can be with rewards, the more successful you will be. Just giving a treat from your hand is not the most exciting way to reward your dog.  One game dogs usually love is to search for food so you can teach the ‘Find-it’ command which opens the door to lots of fun and games for both food and toy searches.

Toys and Games

Keep two or three special toys for training – these should be put away at the end of training where the dog does not have access to them.  This way the toys should keep their appeal wherever you are and whatever distractions may be about.

You, of course, need to find which toys and games your dog likes best.  Some dogs will be happy to play with the same toys each time, with others you will need to vary them and so keep a better variety of special toys.

Some dogs, sadly, may not yet have learned how to play with you.  I get quite a few owners who say their dogs will not play, or that they will play at home but not out on a walk, but I have never yet met a dog which I cannot get to engage in some form of play with their owners when outdoors – please see my one to one page for more information about private training or come along to classes where you will also learn about how to play with your dog.

There are lots of great dog toys out there on the market and one of my favourites (and the dogs’ favourites) is the
Fun With Fido range – please see the previous article.

Also a firm favourite with my current puppy is the fairly robust ‘Shake A’ range of soft squeak toys (do not leave alone with your dog but keep for special play, as noted above).  My pup loves the Shake a Fox and Shake a Pheasant, amongst other items in her play box and personal rucksack! See Amazon.

Games to teach your dog…

There are of course lots of games you can play with your dog, such as:

• Back to the ‘you’ reward – you can run and bounce around and use an exciting voice and run away from your dog to get his or her attention. So long as they don’t learn bad habits such as nipping at you or your clothes or jumping up at you or other people, this play is perfectly acceptable and a good way to get focus.  Even if you can’t move too much you can still experiment with your voice to see what gets and holds your dog’s attention the best and what makes his or her tail wag.
• Retrieving a toy (but please, not lots of repeated uncontrolled ball-throwing as this can over excite your dog as well as damage joints)
• Tug and Leave – this, of course, is only for dogs which are not possessive over toys but the majority of dogs love to play tug and so it’s worth finding out how to play this safely and how to get an instant ‘leave.’
• All training should also be an enjoyable game for your dog and so heel work, sit, down, recall, recall when in chase mode, leave, etc, etc, can all be taught as games so that your dog will think he or she is playing with you but you are actually training them without them even knowing it.
• There are also lots of other games and activities you can become involved in such as agility, obedience, working trials, gundog trials. However, if you choose any of these activities please make sure it is something that your dog will enjoy doing and that your dog’s basic training and good manners are not compromised either during training or at competitions.  Whichever activity you may take up, you will still need to know how to play with your dog and keep their attention.

Freedom

Letting your dog out of the house into the garden, to go for walks, and letting your dog off lead are great rewards which are often overlooked.

You can make use of these opportunities as part of the daily training by asking for an action such as sit, down, or waiting quietly before letting your dog out or off-lead.

If you would like some one to one help on any of the training aspects above please get in touch to discuss how I may help you or see my one to one page on my website.

You may also be interested in my article on teaching your dog to retrieve.

 

Happy training.

 

Sally Bartlett
www.co-operativecanines.co.uk

 

 

THE DOG’S NOSE KNOWS …

 

 

http://www.tcbts.co.uk/2017-conference-the-dogs-nose-knows/

The Canine Behaviour and Training Society (of which I am a member) have an annual conference on Sunday 1st October 2017 and this year their guest speaker will be Dr Claire Guest from the charity Medical Detection Dogs.

The talk is entitled THE DOG’S NOSE KNOWS’ and I know this talk will be one really worth attending as I have spoken with Claire in the past as part of previous study into assistance dogs and their specialised training.

The conference is open to all dog owners and tickets may be obtained directly online from the Canine Behaviour and Training Society’s website :

www.tcbts.co.uk/2017-conference-the-dogs-nose-knows.

 

Sally Bartlett
www.co-operativecanines.co.uk

 

PRACTICAL OUTDOOR DOG TRAINING CLASSES REDHILL AREA, SURREY

 

DOG TRAINING CLASSES STARTING IN OUTWOOD (SATURDAYS) AND SOUTH NUTFIELD (THURSDAYS) START MAY AND JUNE 2017  (MAXIMUM 4 – 6 DOGS IN EACH CLASS)

ALL  CLASSES ARE LIMITED TO A MAXIMUM OF 4 TO 6 DOGS TO ENSURE YOU ARE ABLE TO RECEIVE ADEQUATE ONE-TO-ONE ATTENTION AND TO ALLOW YOUR DOGS TO LEARN IN A CALM AND REALISTIC OUTDOOR ENVIRONMENT.

ALL COURSES ARE EIGHT WEEKS (ONE HOUR PER WEEK)

• Classes are held in practical outdoor training environments
  (scenic private farmland and a variety of public training areas).
• Practical training locations ensure you gain a good level of training with your dog in realistic circumstances. 
• Giving you a dog which is a pleasure to live with at home and in public.

PLEASE CONTACT FOR REGISTRATION FORM, LOCATIONS AND PRICES AND ALSO SEE WEBSITE ‘CLASSES’ PAGE FOR MORE DETAILS

CLASSES IN OUTWOOD

Outwood is just 15 minutes from Reigate, Redhill, Horley, Bletchingley, Godstone and East Grinstead.

NEW CLASSES 2017

Saturday, 20 May – Saturday, 8 July 2017

First four classes 11.30am – 12.30pm and final four classes 10am – 11am
Maximum of 6 dogs for this course so please book early

For this course, most classes are held on private farmland with the final two on public land to maximise learning in practical dog-walking environments.

Please note that I cannot accept dogs into class if they have any aggression issues towards other dogs or with people but one-to-one behavioural advice is available

CLASSES IN NUTFIELD 

Nutfield is just 5 – 15 minutes from Reigate, Redhill, Horley, Bletchingley and Godstone

NEW CLASSES 2017

Thursday,  8 June 2017 – Thursday, 27 July 2017
10am – 11am
Maximum of 4 dogs for this course so please book early

For this course, all classes will be held on public land to maximise learning in practical dog-walking environments.

Please note that I cannot accept dogs into class if they have any aggression issues towards other dogs or with people but one-to-one behavioural advice is available.

PUPPIES PLAY BITING AND CHEWING

Using a food toy for entertainment
(The Busy Buddy Twist ‘n Treat)
Very useful for young dogs although this is 12 year old retired gundog enjoying retirement!

 

This is one of the most common issues I am asked to help with – both with puppies and adolescent dogs which are play biting and chewing.

Why do puppies and adolescent dogs play bite and chew

There are several reasons:

• Teething (around 4 – 7 months)
• Adult teeth settling in (around 7 months to 10 months)
• Some breeds are more prone to chew, such as some gundog breeds
• Boredom – puppies and young dogs need mental ‘entertainment’ as well as physical exercise
• A lack of training commands (such as ‘Leave’ and teaching a good ‘Down-Stay’)
• A lack of supervision with children (and some adults!) to ensure the puppy does not get into bad habits of chasing, hanging off trouser legs, etc
• People are playing too roughly or excitedly with the puppy/dog and the dog believes that biting a person or their clothing is an acceptable way to behave.

Please remember that a puppy’s or dog’s natural behaviour with litter mates is often to race around grabbing them with teeth and playing rough.  It is our job therefore to teach the dogs in our care that this sort of behaviour, with people and other dogs, is no longer the way to behave.

It also follows then that it is equally our job to teach them how we would like them to behave and to provide the relevant environment, training, and games to allow them to do so.

What you need to do

• Alleviate the boredom.
• Teach some reliable commands (such as ‘Leave’ and ‘Down-Stay’).
• Provide some suitable relief for the irritation of the new teeth coming through.
• Ensure the whole household learns to play more appropriate games with your dog.

Teaching your puppy/dog what is not acceptable

Your dog needs to learn that dog teeth should never touch human skin or clothing, even when it is only play biting.  Dog law these days does not look kindly on dogs which behave in a way which might be deemed ‘ dangerously out of control.’ – see Dog Law guide.

The best way to have your dog understand he should not bite you or your clothes is to shout a loud “Ouch” (say it with meaning and in a low tone of voice (please do NOT make high pitched noises as these can excite them).  Immediately remove your attention from the dog and completely ignore him.

I must emphasise –  be very careful NOT to squeak your “ouch” – this sounds like an invitation to play to the dog and has the opposite effect.

With some dogs any form of shouting will excite them.  If that is the case with your dog then simply remove your attention without saying anything.

If he still continues biting at you then you (all) need to either leave the room or put the puppy in his pen/other room/ outdoors (try not to use his crate too often as that should be a safe haven to the dog and not a punishment – that is why a larger pen or other enclosed area is so useful).

The idea of isolating the dog from the family is that he learns he gains no attention for his behaviour (which is what they are usually after when play biting starts) and so their play biting becomes unsuccessful.

Be Fair with Your Dog

All that said, remember at the start I said there are several reasons for your puppy behaving like this.  It is essential for your dog’s mental well-being to ensure he has enough mental stimulation and play so that his trying to literally ‘grab your attention’ is no longer necessary and that you can continue to be seen as a good playmate but with sensible rules attached to play.  So, read on:

Entertainment for Your Dog  

• Play appropriate games (always under your control) with your dog. This is an opportunity to train while you play.  (We will discuss these during classes and one to one training sessions).  One of my favourite toys to use for playing with dogs is the Fun with Fido toy – see my previous article.
• Supervise any games with children (or immature adults!).
• Rotate your dog’s toys and chews each day so that he will be interested in them.

 

When giving your dog any new item, supervise him to check he is safe to be left with it.
Some dogs eat anything!

 

Using food to ‘entertain’ your dog

Before using any human food please be sure that you read the BVA Pet Poisons guide to make you aware of which foods dogs must not be given.  More recently dog owners have been made aware of the dangers of some reduced sugar peanut butter which has the sweetener xylitol, which is very poisonous to dogs.

• You can give your dog several items (see below) at either room temperature or frozen (if your dog has a sensitive stomach you may want to check with your vet if frozen food is suitable).
• By giving frozen food this means your dog will take longer to eat the food so is occupied for longer (and kept out of mischief), and also the coolness helps soothe sore teething gums.
• You can soak your dog’s normal dried food with a little water or weak stock or saved meat juices from your cooking. If you are using commercial stock cubes please use only the reduced-salt products because, like us, too much salt is bad for dogs.  If the vet has put your dog on a reduced salt diet  (often done when a dog has a kidney, liver or heart condition) then you must not feed any additional salt).
• You can use a little peanut butter (NOT the reduced sugar type as it may contain poisonous xylitol) or other similar product to bind dry ingredients together.
• Give a variety of stuffed kongs (also can be fed frozen).
• A dampened and then frozen tea towel.

Just be aware that some items get messy – feed on an easy-to-clean surface.

You can also:

• Scatter food in the garden or other safe and suitable area so that the puppy takes longer to eat and has some mental stimulation involved in the process of eating, which is a more natural way for a dog to eat. Do not put food in areas where you don’t want your dog to go, and be aware that if eating outdoors you should be extra careful that your dog’s wormer covers lungworm, which is caught from snails, slugs and frogs and their trails).Please note that scattering food either outside or in an area indoors which is not regularly cleaned is NOT recommended for a young dog which is not yet covered by vaccines or any dog which is prone to stomach upsets.  This is also not advised if you have wildlife (such as foxes) visiting your garden.
• Give your dog cardboard boxes to play in and bite on (ensure no staples).
• Give your dog empty plastic milk cartons to play with (remove the lids).
• Use activity balls, kongs and other similar food-toys to give your dog more mental stimulation.
• Spend time several times each day play training with your dog and teaching him how to play politely (no jumping or snatching for the toy). This teaches good manners if played correctly and will mentally tire your dog – we will work on this in classes and one to one training.

General notes

• As noted previously, when giving your dog any new item, supervise him to check he is safe to be left with it. Some dogs eat anything!
• Before using any ‘human’ food please be sure that you read the BVA Pet Poisons guide to make you aware of which foods dogs must not be given. More recently dog owners have been made aware of the dangers of some reduced sugar peanut butter which has the sweetener xylitol, which is very poisonous to dogs.
• Your house should look like a tip! It should be strewn with cardboard boxes and plastic bottles (tops removed) and toys (rotated each day so that your dog is keen to play with them).
• If your dog steals items, usually shoes, then put these away out of reach until your dog is better trained and/or has stopped chewing. Knowing your dog’s behaviour and planning to avoid such problems is a lot easier than constantly trying to retrieve an object from your puppy.
• Do not leave food lying around in reach of the dog. Once trained you can tell your dog to leave such items but in the early days if you leave food in reach of your dog you are just teaching him the habit of jumping up at shelves and tables in search of food.  Once they have gained a great reward (such as your Sunday roast!), it will be much harder to stop them from stealing in future.  Prevention is better than cure …
• Use toys, chews and other items to keep your puppy occupied.

Suggested toys

To find these, google on the internet or look on Amazon for ‘Dog Interactive Toys’

If you find something not listed here and your dog loves it, please leave your comment on the blog – thank you.

Whatever you choose, please supervise your dog and ensure each toy is suitable and safe for your dog.

Treat balls (regular or atomic which is irregular shape)

Busy Buddy twist n treat

Ruff n tuff stick-it-to-me (strong hollow stick-like toy to stuff with dry food – dogs must bite on it to release food)

Buster cube – soft or hard plastic (the soft plastic is useful if you have hard floors and want to reduce noise)

Tug a jug – rubber ball on rope in plastic jug which is pulled to release treat

Busy Buddy ‘linkables’ – slot one food filled shape into another

Busy buddy rip and tug (various types of Velcro toys which dogs rip apart to get their treats)

Grunter hippo – Battersea Dogs Home

Sitstay.com – inter-slotting food filled toys

Treatstik.com – quality treat sticks

Nina Ottoson toys (these are designed more for use when you are with the dog)

Canine Concepts – Kool Dogz ice treat maker (makes huge ice cube in which you can put other treats and toys)

Raw bones (never feed bones which have been cooked).  Please note that there is a reported risk of bones causing blockages, splintering or damaging teeth but this is minimal if you are careful which bones you feed.  A larger size bone is better as dogs are less likely to be able to bite off chunks of the bone (which can cause blockages inside) and so it is better to give your dog a bone which is too big than too small.  Also ensure you feed only bones from young animals (which are less likely to splinter or damage teeth as they are softer).  Also ensure you acquire bones from a reliable source to ensure good hygiene practice and ensure your own hygiene practice is good, both for your dog’s and your family’s sake.  As always, supervise your dog with any new item to ensure it is safe.

Warning:  High Value Food Items

Even the best natured of dogs can become possessive over bones and other items which they perceive as high value.  If you see any problems with this please contact me immediately so that we can deal with improving your dog’s behaviour and advising you how best to deal with the issue.  This sort of issue does not ‘go away’ and you need professional advice as soon as possible.

Obedience training to help with play biting

• Teach ‘Leave’ (both with food and to leave objects and other dogs and people).
• Teach ‘Down-Stay’. Even better if you train your dog to lie down in his bed / crate (but always kindly and never as a punishment).
• Teach ‘No’ (this is easily learned by most dogs if you use a quiet, firm voice and correct body language to teach the dog that this command means he should stop doing whatever it is he is doing at that moment)
• As mentioned previously, use a puppy pen/partitioned off area of a room/outdoors, etc ,and put toys and chews there during busy periods or when puppy is excitable and you need him to calm down. You can also put him in there if he is behaving in an unacceptable way so that he learns he will not gain your attention for long if he behaves inappropriately –  but still ensure this a pleasant place to be for him.  A puppy pen is really useful because you can move it into different rooms so that he can remain with you but can be put in there if he is behaving inappropriately.
• Be careful that you do not excite an already excitable puppy or give him the attention he is seeking. It is best to, once you have done your “ouch” to remain calm and to ignore him completely by not speaking, touching or even looking at him when he is behaving inappropriately.  As before, if needs be, leave the dog alone in the area where he is misbehaving (ie remove your attention) or put him in his safe area to calm down and pay him no attention until he is quieter.

If you are still having trouble with your dog’s behaviour despite your best efforts, I can come to your home to help you and your dog. Please get in touch via email or telephone.

© 2017 Sally Bartlett
www.co-operativecanines.co.uk

 

 

WEEKEND & WEEKDAY DOG TRAINING CLASSES REDHILL AREA APRIL 2017

Good girl!  Coming back when called even when there are other distractions…

 

DOG TRAINING CLASSES ARE KEPT TO A MAXIMUM OF 6 DOGS  TO ENSURE YOU ARE ABLE TO RECEIVE ADEQUATE ONE-TO-ONE ATTENTION AND TO ALLOW DOGS TO LEARN IN A CALM OUTDOOR ENVIRONMENT.

8 WEEK COURSE (ONE HOUR PER WEEK) £104

• Classes are held in practical outdoor training environments (scenic private farmland and a variety of public training areas).
• Practical training locations ensure you gain a good level of training with your dog in realistic circumstances. 
• Giving you a dog which is a pleasure to live with at home and in public.

CLASSES IN NUTFIELD

Nutfield is just 5 – 15 minutes from Reigate, Redhill, Horley, Bletchingley and Godstone

Thursday,  13 April 2017 – Thursday, 1 June 2017
10am – 11am
Maximum of 4 dogs for this course so please book early
£104 for 8 week course

For this course, all classes will be held on public land to maximise learning in practical dog-walking environments.

Please note that I cannot accept dogs into class if they have any aggression issues towards other dogs or with people but one-to-one behavioural advice is available.

CLASSES IN OUTWOOD

Outwood is just 15 minutes from Reigate, Redhill, Horley, Bletchingley, Godstone and East Grinstead.

Saturday, 8 April – Saturday, 10 June 2017
(NO CLASSES ON 15 APRIL OR 13 MAY)
10am – 11am
Maximum of 6 dogs for this course so please book early
£104 for 8 week course

For this course, classes will be mainly on private farm land with the final two on public land to maximise learning in practical dog-walking environments.

Please note that I cannot accept dogs into class if they have any aggression issues towards other dogs or with people but one-to-one behavioural advice is available

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE CLASSES, PLEASE SEE ‘CLASSES’ PAGE OF MY WEBSITE.

IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO ATTEND REGULAR CLASSES I OFFER ONE-TO-ONE TRAINING THROUGHOUT THE YEAR WITH WEEKEND, WEEK DAY AND EVENING APPOINTMENTS.
CORRECT SOCIALISATION FOR YOUR PUPPY OR OLDER DOG CAN ALSO BE WORKED ON IN THESE PRIVATE SESSIONS BY TRAINING IN A PUBLIC AREA.
PLEASE SEE ‘ONE-TO-ONE’ PAGE.

I look forward to hearing from you and to welcoming you to my classes.

Sally Bartlett
www.co-operativecanines.co.uk

 

HAPPY CLIENTS AND THEIR DOGS …

The comments below are all genuine feedback from clients’ texts and emails, both from one to one training and from classes.  For more feedback please also see the ‘Testimonials’ page of my website.   Some owners have kindly given permission for their names to be published but others are kept anonymous – I value client confidentiality so even dogs’ names are withheld unless permission is given to use them.  I have also added some of my own comments on each case in red.

**********

Thank you very much, I did wonder when I took B out earlier if you had stolen him and left a much better behaved dog in his place.  And we just had a game of tug with the sock !
Border Collie (one to one training 2017)
This is on my ‘Testimonials’ page also but here I have a note about this case – I loved working with this clever Border Collie who needed some help with his general training, and to stop his barking in the car and prevent his car chasing behaviour when walked next to roads.  We also did some work on teaching this boy how to enjoy suitable games with him and his family, which always helps with training and behavior modification.  As ever, a combination of training and behaviour change methods led to the lovely feedback from the owner above.

Hi Sally, I have today received your newsletter and it prompted me to get in touch. If you recall, you spent some time with us at the end of 2015 with our new cocker spaniel puppy Fudge. I thought you would be interested to see what she looks like these days now she is approaching 2! I have to say that she is totally an utterly a massive part of our family and we woud all be lost without her.  She is a super friend and a new shadow for me during the day. Apart from getting cross with foxes, she is a super well behaved and very consistent with her behaviour. Thank you for all your help in the early days.
Cocker Spaniel (one to one training 2015 – message received 2017)
Cockers are lively and sometimes quite independent little souls and so early training as a puppy is really useful to ensure good habits are learned.  In particular, as spaniels love to use their noses even more than usual, teaching good walk on lead (without being hauled to every scent en route!) is really useful, as is a good recall to avoid your puppy disappearing off after the nearest wildlife.

Hi Sally, thank you for this end of class list, it really helps me know how to maintain the good training, and correct when things slip (such as rewarding too early on retrieve, just had the ‘aha’ moment from reading this, realising why retrieve item is being dropped as soon as she sees the hand has a treat in!)  Once again, thanks for the training, it has been just what I was looking for for Maya, so pleased to have got her to 5 months as a happy well mannered little dog, with confidence to behave like a dog outside. I’ll keep up the practice to keep it up!
Jack Russell x Chichuahua (classes spring 2017)
Maya is a brilliant little dog with a big heart who loved the outdoor classes and especially enjoyed her time doing off lead exercises (with a great recall and focus on her ‘mum’).

Thanks for all the lessons its helped massively and I have enjoyed learning.
Puppy and adolescent Labrador
I worked on a one-to-one basis from 8.5 weeks until 5 months old with this lovely black Labrador and the dedication to training has really paid off.  I look forward to welcoming him onto my next training walk to add more advanced training exercises and to continue with more positive socialisation experiences (really important through adolescence as well as puppyhood)

Many thanks for your wonderful help and advice and if it’s OK I’ll be in touch if and when for more training. Thanks again.
Adolescent Boxer
Help needed here with a young and exuberant dog, both to help with on-lead walking when excited and and some play-biting behaviour  in the home.  A happy ending with both issues sorted in one session.

S is doing really well and so much better now. We also know how to handle things and so he responds straight away. I came across the same dogs he had lunged at during our training session recently and he was as good as gold. It is a joy to take him out now.
Mastiff Cross (adult rescue dog)
This comment is on my main ‘testimonials’ page but as I met this lovely dog recently  (a few years after he came to classes and one to ones with me) I wanted to say again what a joy it is to help dogs with behaviour issues adjust successfully to allow them to enjoy a very happy and full life.  Thank you to the owners for giving this gentle giant rescue dog the life he deserves.

I thought I would just update you on B’s progress. We have had her off the lead a few times now up at [location suggested by trainer] and it’s ideal for her as she still has a tendency to get distracted, however, she always comes back!  Thanks so much for all your help with the training, I feel we’ve turned a bit of a corner with her.
Rescue Jack Russell (classes)
This is what makes being a trainer so rewarding – I loved seeing this little rescue dog off lead for the first time and belting around in fields and woods, enjoying her freedom, but coming back to check in with ‘mum and dad’ in between her adventures!

Thank you so much for you help today, I really feel I have gained the guidance I needed to improve L’s recall. We would like to come along to your organised dog walks.  Once again, thank you so much.
Cocker Spaniel (one to one)
This young Cocker needed to gain more focus on his owner so we experimented a bit until we found something suitable.  This, plus a few other training methods, kept him checking in with his owner of his own accord and consequently gaining a better recall.   This was achieved in one session but of course it takes continued training to maintain and improve a dog’s obedience and attention when off lead and there are rarely any quick fixes.

Just had a lovely walk round block with R.  Walk lovely on loose lead, came back when stopped and corrected for heel, the most relaxed stroll we’ve ever had!!
Adolescent Labrador (one to one)
Lead walking is one of the most common problems which I help with and there are many different ways to achieve this, so I use a variety of methods to suit you and your dogs.  I can show you the most effective equipment (and how to use it correctly) as well as also teaching dogs to come to ‘heel’ so that they understand what we would like them to do and so eventually do away with the necessity for headcollars or harnesses.

Thank you Sally. It was really very useful and invaluable input. I took M out today, he wore his muzzle and line and was off 90% of the time. We only met one dog, while he was loose. M was a bit on his toes, as in over-excited, but I kept walking and called him away after a few sniffs- he came straight away- Good Boy M!.      Yes please keep me on the list for your training walks, Sally, that would be very good.
Rescue Jack Russell (one to one)
Another little rescue JR who we were able to get off lead, having first checked on his reaction to other dogs.  As he could be a bit grumpy with the very occasional dog, we ensured we had control and safety measures if needed.  It was great to see him enjoying some freedom, having a good old sniff around, and playing with lots of other dogs.

Thank you for your email and useful reminders and tips.  I enjoyed the course and it’s given me confidence in handling R, as a first-time dog owner.  I know I have a lot more practising to do with R but she got very confident at the lessons and she gets better each day. We’re having a lot of fun. Thank you so much for all your help.  I’d like to know of future walks and look forward to more tips on R’s behaviour as well as joining in with other dogs and owners again.  Your course was just what I wanted – not too regimented and more about basic control skills and bringing up a well behaved pup.  I liked that it was outside *but found some of the fields were a bit *difficult for R, being quite small in the long grass.  However, the course was friendly and good fun and I, and R, enjoyed the lessons very much. I look forward to seeing you again on one of the walks next year.
Cockerpoo Puppy (classes)
*Classes are held outdoors to ensure you gain useful practical experience.  However, I do warn owners before signing up for the Outwood classes that they are held on a farm and grass may be unmown and so not suitable for small-breed puppies.  If you are thinking about coming to my classes, please be sure that your puppy will he happy to train in such conditions.

Thank you for all your help with the training – we’ve learned loads!  We will be joining you 100% for one of the walks.
Labrador Puppy (classes)
A happy little puppy, who progressed very nicely.  I bumped into this owner recently when her dog was about seven months old and she said that the training had really paid off and that her now ‘teenage’ dog was very good.

All of us really enjoyed the sessions. All in all, fantastic! In a world dominated by e-commerce it is refreshing to find someone who is passionate and professional about what they do. D is definitely now on the road to becoming a well trained dog.      Labradoodle puppy (classes)
Labradoodles are bright, very lively dogs and it is always a pleasure to see the energy channelled into positive play and training which help turn what could be an unruly dog into a great companion.

 Thank you so much for your excellent training.  We are very lucky to have you.
Lurcher
I love Lurchers – so many types – but usually affectionate and clever.  The main issue with this cross-breed is usually controlling their chase instinct so lots of work needed on recall and stop at a distance.

Sally’s training formed a solid foundation of B’s accomplishments to date. Since our puppy training class he’s gone on to pass the Kennel Club Bronze, Silver and Gold all in a year and a half which is fantastic. We couldn’t have achieved this without Sally’s help over the past couple of years, whether it was on his puppy training course or on the training walks we do every now and again. Sally’s knowledge and training style is exactly what we needed for our unruly little puppy who is now an absolute gem. Thanks Sally!
Labrador
Lovely comments and a pleasure always to work with owners who put in so much time and effort and then reap the rewards of their hard work – a well trained dog will also have a happier and fuller life as is a pleasure to take anywhere.

NEW DOG TRAINING CLASS NEAR REDHILL

 

 A good student! – practising a speedy terrier recall  on her way to ‘mum’ and a favourite toy …

 

NEW 8 WEEK COURSE FEBRUARY 2017

Thursday, 9 February 2017 – Thursday, 30 March 2017
10am – 11am   :    £104 for 8 week course
Maximum of 5 dogs for this course so please book early
For more details please see ‘Classes’ page or please get in touch via email or phone.

For this course, all classes will be held on public land to maximise learning in practical dog-walking environments.

Please note that I cannot accept dogs into class if they have any aggression issues towards other dogs or with people but one-to-one behavioural advice is available.

 

Sally Bartlett
www.co-operativecanines.co.uk

DOGS SCARED OF FIREWORKS

Teach your dog to relax during firework season

There are sadly still many dogs with an extreme fear of fireworks and unfortunately these days  there may be more than one evening of firework displays near you during Guy Fawkes’ season, as well as at other times of the year, so it is really worthwhile starting a behavioural change programme as soon as possible for your dog.

As well as starting on a methodical and effective behaviour change programme for future occasions when there may be fireworks, it is also very helpful to start straight away on methods which will help your dog cope better in the short-term and so at least begin to reduce the fear response for those events which will be happening in the coming weeks.

Further information on how to help dogs reduce their fear of fireworks

For more detailed information on how to help your dog cope at this time of year, please click on the link to my  previous article on dogs with a fear of fireworks  or call me to arrange an appointment to discuss how best to arrange things in your home so that your dog will feel more comfortable in the short-term and also to work on a longer-term behaviour change programme so that your dog will be less distressed on future occasions.

 

© 2015 Sally Bartlett
www.co-operativecanines.co.uk

 

 

DOG TRAINING REDHILL AREA – NEW CLASS

PUPPY AND DOG TRAINING CLASSES REDHILL AREA

ALL CLASSES AND WORKSHOPS ARE KEPT TO A MAXIMUM OF 6 DOGS TO ENSURE YOU ARE ABLE TO RECEIVE ADEQUATE ONE-TO-ONE ATTENTION AND TO ALLOW DOGS TO LEARN IN A CALM ENVIRONMENT.

THE 8 WEEK COURSE IS £104 AND INCLUDES A 1 HOUR CLASS EACH WEEK

CLASSES LOCATION IS IN NUTFIELD

Nutfield is just 5 – 15 minutes from Reigate, Redhill, Horley, Bletchingley and Godstone

8 WEEK COURSE:

Thursday, 17 November 2016 – Thursday, 19 January 2017
(No class on 22 or 29 December – although you are expected to do your Christmas holiday homework!)

For this course, all classes will be held on public land to maximise learning in practical dog-walking environments.

Please note that I cannot accept dogs into class if they have any aggression issues towards other dogs or with people (but private behavioural advice is available) – please see link to one-to-one training, Redhill area.

For further information and registration form please contact me via phone (07752 427804) or via my contact form on the Co-operative Canines Dog Training & Behaviour website page.

For more information about classes and their content please see my dog training classes page.

I look forward to hearing from you and to working with you and your puppies or older dogs in my training walk classes.

Sally Bartlett
Co-operative Canines Dog Training & Behaviour